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Another view of the sculptural grouping of Agnete and the Merman--minus Agnete--with long grasses and moss waving in the blue-green water around their feet.

A Visit with Agnete and the Merman—Copenhagen, Denmark

Agnete and the Merman? Who could that be? A Danish folklore ballad inspired a statue that proves that the famous Little Mermaid is not the only “mer-life” statue that should go on your Things to See in Copenhagen list.

Folklore and Fairytales—Perfect for Copenhagen

Every visitor to Copenhagen knows about and wants to see The Little Mermaid, perched so delicately on her rock at the water’s edge along Langelinie promenade. The Hans Christian Anderson-inspired mermaid has been an iconic tourist attraction in the city for more than a hundred years. She is an intrinsic part of the fairytale that Copenhagen seems to bring to life. But mermaids and mermen are numerous in Danish myth, legend, and fairytale. And there is another statue you can see… assuming the water is smooth and the sun is right. Because Agnete and the Merman is underwater. And Agnete herself is missing.

Inspired by a traditional Scandinavian ballad, the grouping of statues, cast in bronze and positioned on a bronze platform, sits just under the surface of the water in Copenhagen’s shallow Slotsholm Canal, right next to the Højbro Bridge. As I said, Agnete herself is not part of the group, and therein lies the tale, which some say dates back to medieval folklore.

Agnete and the Merman—a Tale of Love, Loss, and Longing

The grouping of seven bronze figures on a square bronze platform called Agnete and the Merman can be seen just below the surface of the blue-green water in the Slotsholm Canal next to the Højbro Bridge, in Copenhagen, Denmark.

Agnete’s abandoned Merman and their children, including a baby in arms, mourn their lost wife and mother just below the surface of the water in the Slotsholm Canal next to the Højbro Bridge. Photo: ϟ†Σ on flikr. Creative commons license CC by 2.0,

As the legend goes, Agnete was a pretty, young village girl. One day, as she was walking alongside the water, a merman emerged from the waves. He must have been a handsome devil, because she was instantly smitten with him. The feeling was mutual. When he asked for her hand, the girl, all thought of her home and chores and family flying from her head, immediately accepted and went into the water to live with the merman. And there they lived happily ever after… or at least long enough for her to give birth to seven mer-sons. One day, perhaps swimming too near the surface, Agnete heard the ringing of the church bells wafting from the land. She was struck with homesickness and begged the merman to allow her to go to church. Reluctantly, he consented, making her promise to return right after the service.

At the church, Agnete saw her mother. She learned that the church bells were ringing for the funeral of her father, who had died from sorrow after unsuccessfully searching for her for so many years. Once back on land, she seemed to forget her love for the merman and her children and decided to stay and return to her landed life. In some versions of the folktale, the merman comes to the church to plead with her, telling her that her children are crying for her. But she blithely brushes him aside and leaves with her mother to return to her earlier life.

The suddenly single mer-dad returns to the sea and his children, never to see Agnete again. But her water-logged family never stops missing her.

Danish sculptor Suste Bonnen, who created the sculpture grouping in 1992, used bronze to tell the story of their loss and fittingly placed the figures under the water. With palpable anguish and longing, the merman and his sad children stand there among the reeds and waving mosses. Some bury their faces in their hands or arms; others reach toward the surface of the water, pleading endlessly for the return of their mama. With the swirling, rippling surface of the water, sometimes milky with reflected clouds, often hazy and almost covering the view so it is seen like a fleeting memory, the Slotsholm Canal is the perfect setting for this ancient tale of love and loss.

Another view of the sculptural grouping by Danish aartist Suste Bonnen of Agnete and the Merman--minus Agnete--with long grasses and moss waving in the blue-green water around their feet.

Grasses and reeds swirl around their feet as Agnete’s children raise their arms, pleading for their mother’s return.


The Best Way to Find Agnete and the Merman

It’s easy to miss the statue retelling the story of Agnete and the Merman if you don’t know it’s there. You will, after all, likely be enthralled by the site of the nearby Christiansborg Palace. Also, dozens of tour boats pass right by the statue every day, keeping the water rippled and churned. But it’s worth standing on the bridge awhile, if necessary, waiting for the water to still, or the sunlight to shift a degree or two so you can bring the poor merman and his lonely children into clear view.

I would have missed this Danish treasure entirely except for the fact that I was on a walking tour with a really good guide. He pointed out the sculpture and retold the folktale. It’s just more proof for me that a city walking tour is one of the best ways to be introduced to a new city. You can find a good Copenhagen walking tour here.

In the evenings, which are lovely in Copenhagen if you visit in summer, the statue is lit a ghostly blue-green, or sometimes golden yellow. Somehow, the darkness, the streetlights reflected on the water’s surface, dancing gay and golden, make the statues even more poignant. The figures seem to undulate, keening in the glow of the underwater lights.

The figures of the sculpture Agnete and the Merman look ghostly in the glow of the underwater lights at night, seeming to move and keen with the undulating water.

At night, the sculpture is lit with underwater lights. They give it a haunting quality as the figures seem to
keen in the undulating movement of the glowing lights. Photo by Nettadi: Creative Commons License.

There’s a very good chance that when you get home from your trip to Copenhagen and talk to friends who have also visited this fairytale city, they’ll mention the Little Mermaid or Tivoli or Nyhavn. Visits to these iconic sites are wonderful things to do in Copenhagen. You should definitely have them on your list. But when you recount the tale of Agnete and the Merman, you’ll likely be the only one to have seen the mourning family that lives under the water. And your friends will be hoping they can go back to the fairytale city to see this most unusual of things to do in Copenhagen. They will want to visit the emblem of longing for themselves.


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Prague's upside-down horse hangs with King Wenceslaus riding his belly.

POTW: Prague’s Upside-Down Horse

An upside-down horse is likely not what you came to Prague expecting to see. But then Czech artist David Černý likes to do things differently. The horse and the beautiful Lucerna Passage it hangs in, should not be missed.

On any trip to Prague, you’re certainly going to visit Wenceslaus Square. This is where things happen in Prague… revolutions, celebrations, demonstrations. And all this feverish activity is watched over by the country’s patron saint, Vaclav, who we in the West tend to know as Good King Wenceslaus. He was the Christian ruler of the country in the 10th century and was murdered by his ambitious brother Boleslav the Cruel.

There he sits at the top of the square, astride a majestic prancing horse, in front of the domed National Museum. The statue was begun by sculptor Josef Vaclav Myslbek in 1887 and finally put into place in 1912, a testament to Czech honor, patriotism, and all that good stuff.

But not so far away, near the other end of the square, is another King Vaclav and his horse… but with a twist of classic Czech irony.

Prague's upside-down horse hangs with King Wenceslaus riding his belly.

Do you think King Wenceslaus is oblivious to the fact that his steed is not only an upside-down horse
that’s sticking its tongue out but is also dead?

Inside the Lucerna Passage—an elegant and decorative Art Nouveau shopping and entertainment area built in 1920—you’ll find yourself confronting another horse that, while perhaps not of a different color is certainly of a different condition. He’s dead, you see, and hanging by his feet, his poor head lolling down and his tongue sticking out. But apparently King Vaclav still needed a mount, dead or alive, and so he mounted the upside down steed, riding astride the dead horse’s belly.

This upside-down horse, a perfect depiction of the Czech penchant for black humor, was created in 1999 by the post-modern Czech artist David Černý. The same David Černý who once painted a Russian tank that was gracing the square pink. And the same one who designed those odd babies you might have noticed crawling up the sides of the Czech TV tower.

The poor dead horse and his oblivious king seem yet more bizarre surrounded by the elaborate marble work and stained glass and general Art-Nouveau kitschy loveliness of the atrium where they hang. You can’t help but wonder how that fragile and lovely ceiling can support the weight of such a large piece. But although it looks like bronze, the horse and rider are actually sculpted of foam.

A Presidential Connection

The building was built by Vaclav Havel, grandfather of the famous poet/playwright/dissident of the same name who became the first president of the nation after the fall of Communism (which he helped bring about). Havels are still part owners of the property and in fact, one of the stories I heard about the Upside-Down Horse involves the family. Word is that an aunt of the presidential Vaclav was a firm Royalist and ordered the statue as a statement of persistence and faith. She decreed that the king should ride on an upended dead horse until the monarchy is restored to Czech. Probably an apocryphal tale but if not, our Vaclav here is likely to have a long dead ride.

Like most of Černý’s work, this bizarre, controversial but ultimately enjoyable piece of art is certainly a worthy addition to the Czech tradition of Theater of the Absurd.


Note: There’s a nice cafe on the upper level of the atrium, the Cafe Kino. Just go up the amber-rose colored marble steps across from our guy here. If you can get a seat by the window looking down into the atrium, you can get a nice angle for a photo. I had coffee with whipped cream and a pastry. A bit pricey for Prague, but not out of reach and a pleasant spot.