A Visit to the Heiligenberg, Heidelberg, Germany’s Holy Mountain

With my ancestral roots in Heidelberg, Germany, I was curious on my last visit to discover more of its history and legends. I learned one fine way to do that is up on the Heiligenberg, The Holy Mountain. This heavily wooded hill is home to medieval monastery ruins, the remains of a Celtic fort and a Roman temple, and the formidable 20th-century addition of the Thingstätte, Heidelberg.

The Neckar River, in Heidelberg, winds past a row of beautiful big homes on the bank. Behind them, the Heiligenberg, aka Holy Mountain, rises as a rounded hill covered in thick, deep green forest. A clear blue sky is overhead.
The Heiligenberg, aka “Holy Mountain,” in Heidelberg, rises across the Neckar River from the Old Town.

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Why is Heiligenberg Worth Visiting?

Situated across the Neckar River from the Old Town, this high hill/low mountain is wrapped in natural beauty, ancient legends, and deep history, infused with centuries of myth and mystery. Through a lush and temperate forest characterized by out-of-place seeming palm and fig trees, you get to encounter some of this history as well as gasp-worthy views of the city.

And there’s even a beer garden at the end. Food. Beer. History. Views. What could be better?

What Can You See There?

Besides the mind-boggling views of Heidelberg and the beauty of the forest itself—which is unusually temperate for this area and shows all sorts of plants and trees, like flowering almond trees, not generally seen in Germany—there are several intriguing history lessons on view.

Neolithic pottery shards dug up on the mountain prove that it was inhabited as early as 5500–5100 BCE. The Celts had a moated fort here, and the Romans worshipped their gods. A pair of medieval religious ruins continue the spirituality of the mountain. And the purpose of a 55 yard/meter deep walled shaft is still a mystery to this day—possibly an attempt at a cistern, possibly a place for sacrifices.

How to Get to the Heiligenberg

Unlike the Königstuhl, its sister hill across the river, where you can take the wonderful Heidelberg Bergbahn (funicular) up to the castle and beyond, the Heiligenberg is only accessible by foot or vehicle (including by bike). The hike is lovely if you’re up for it.

Climbing the Holy Mountain on Foot

If you decide to hike to the top of the Heiligenberg, remember that it is UP the whole way. You are climbing a mountain, albeit a low one with a summit of less than 1500 ft/450 meters. The full hike up to the Thingstätte and the Michaelskloster is close to 2 ½ miles/4 km. It is generally classified as a “moderate” hike.

If you take any of the shortcuts, it gets quite steep, but staying on the trail it’s not too bad. It is doable for the average older woman traveler who is in reasonably good shape and used to walking/hiking. It took me about an hour and three-quarters, with stops to rest and catch the magnificent views, to get to the Thingstätte.

Make a Few Preparations First:

  • Because there is limited cell service on the hill, download a map of the route before you head out. It can also be helpful to ask the friendly people at the Tourist Information Center to walk you through the route on a map.
  • Wear comfortable walking shoes. The path is not rough, but there’s a lot of it and some parts may be slippery.
  • Take water with you. And keep thinking of that beer at the end (if you like beer).
  • Take a hat and use sunscreen, especially if it’s summer. Heidelberg can be surprisingly hot in summer.

Begin at the Old Bridge

The first part of the hike is the famous Philosophers’ Way, which begins right after you cross the Old Bridge/Alte Brücke. This is an easy walk of about 1.2 miles/2 km, partly cobblestoned and with plenty of places to stop along the way to rest and admire the views, especially the beautiful Philosophers’ Garden.

Looking down on the Philosophers' Garden, part of the Philosophers' Way in Heidelberg. We see a patch of lawn edged with colorful flowers and a palm tree.
The Philosophers’ Garden is a beautiful spot to stop for a rest and the gorgeous view of Heidelberg.

Part way up this section there is a cut-off to see the Bismarck Tower. This was one of a whole series of towers meant to be connected beacons across Germany. They were built to honor Otto von Bismarck, the unifier of Germany and its first chancellor. It’s a medium climb to the top, where you can see the 8-foot diameter fire bowl of the beacon. Note: The steps are decent but can be dark on a gray day. In full summer, the view is partially obscured by tall trees. Still, it is an interesting stop.

Past the Philosophenweg, you just keep going up, following the signs.

I do love a forest walk, and the path here is beautiful. It smells of green and freshness and exudes a deep sense of peace and well-being. I could feel it seeping right into me.

Finally, the path will bring you to the Thingstätte. When you finish there, it’s just a couple hundred meters farther through the beautiful Odenwald forest to the Michaelskloster. On the other side is the Stephanskloster, also worth seeing

Green trees and a dirt pathway through sun-dappled light in the Odenwald Forest on the Heiligenberg, in Heidelberg.
Odenwald Forest. photo ©Michael Mertens on flickr – CC by-SA 2.0 DEED

When you’re done seeing all that the Heiligenberg has to offer, simply retrace your steps back down to the river and the Old Bridge. Or, better yet, stop at the Waldschenke Heidelberg Beer Garden for a snack or a meal…and that ice-cold beer you’ve maybe been thinking about all the way up.

You can also walk back down from the mountain here. Go toward the parking lot and follow the road to the Theodor-Heuss-Brücke to get back into town.

Driving to the Heiligenberg

If the hike to the top of the Heiligenberg sounds far too daunting to you (which is absolutely fine) and you have access to a car, it’s an easy drive from the city up the mountain. There is a gravel parking lot just about 300 ft./100 meters from the Waldschenke Beer Garden. The lot is free, with several shaded spots and some informational signs. Another 300 ft beyond the beer garden brings you to the entrance to the Thingstätte. Figure 20-30 minutes for the drive from Old Town.

Alternatively, you could rent an e-bike or an e-scooter in town and ride up the hill that way. Could be fun, no?

Another transportation option is to take a taxi or use a ride-sharing service, like UberX. A taxi will cost ~20-30€ to the parking lot depending on where you start. You could ask the driver to come back for you at a specified time. Or ask at the restaurant if they can call you a taxi for the return trip.

Using a ride-share app like UberX will be a bit cheaper, but perhaps less reliable. It’s hard to say. I have used Uber in Copenhagen, Hamburg, central Mexico, and London as well as the US, generally without problems, though sometimes the wait stretches out longer than is comfortable. Also, regulations change frequently, and new companies appear on the scene. Ask at the Tourist Information Office what ride-sharing networks currently operate in Heidelberg and what they recommend.

Public Transportation up the Mountain

Lastly, there’s a bus that goes to the parking lot as well. First you must take tram #25 from Platform E at the main train station or tram #5 or #26 from Bismarckplatz, from Platform A. Get off at Hans-Thoma-Platz in the charming neighborhood of Handschuhsheim (which is itself worth a look around).

From there you get Bus #38 up to the parking lot on Heiligenberg, which is very close to the Thingstatte and monastery ruins.

A typical blue and yellow tram driving on a street in Heidelberg with trees and houses behind it.
Here’s what a typical tram in Heidelberg looks like. Public transportation is good and easy to use.

If you have a valid Heidelberg Card, public transportation is free. If not, you can buy tickets from the ticket vending machines before you start or from the driver on the tram/bus (cash only but they do give change). The best deal is to buy a daily ticket before you begin, which will cover any trips you take until midnight.

Important Note: The bus that stops at the top of the Heiligenberg ONLY runs from May 1st through November 1st and ONLY on Sundays and holidays. It departs from the Hans-Thoma-Platz and takes about 15 minutes. It runs once per hour beginning at 10:17 am. The last bus back from the Heilegenberg is at 5:17.

Take a Private Tour

Finally, the easiest and most luxurious way of all to visit the Heilingenberg, the Thingstätte, the Michalskloster, and the Stephanskloster is to take a private tour with your own driver.

For instance, Manfred’s “private tour with a friend in Heidelberg” gets rave reviews. This is his hometown, and he knows it like the back of his hand. You set your own itinerary in consultation with him. He will pick you up wherever you choose, then you can relax and let him do the rest.

To Conclude, My Advice? Just Go to the Heiligenberg

However you get up to that Holy Mountain, my advice is to just go. It is very much worth an afternoon of your time in Heidelberg.

The combination of its beautiful natural setting in the lush Odenwald forest, its mythic past and millennia-long history, veiled in mystery and spirituality, and its darker, more recent story, makes for a day you’re not likely to forget. And if you do it, (or have done it in the past), tell us below in the comments what you thought.

Pin it for Later:

A pinterest pin showing the Heiligenberg, aka Holy Mountain, in Heidelberg, Germany
pinterest pin showing the Odenwald forest in Heidelberg, Germany. Trees and a dirt path winding through them. Dappled sun and shade.

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